The Nikon Z6III, one of the top Nikon cameras, comes in as the camera company’s newest iteration in the Z-mount full-frame mirrorless line being released in June 2024. The camera boasts blistering autofocus speed, up to 6k/60p RAW high-quality video, and a partially-stacked CMOS sensor, giving this camera several welcome improvements over its previous iteration, the Nikon Z6II.
The Z6III is no different from its predecessors in featuring Nikon’s proprietary Z-mount, which is capable of housing our Kolari Magnetic Clip-in Filters for Z-mount Cameras. Without further ado, let’s get to taking apart this camera!
Like most cameras, we started with removing the camera’s baseplate to access the internals. Eight screws held down the cover of the baseplate.
We removed two screws next to the battery door.
We found three screws in the outer perimeter beneath the battery door.
Removing the aforementioned screws allowed us to remove the camera’s baseplate.
Next, we removed the eyecup, which was removed simply by squeezing the sides and sliding it off the camera. Four screws were located beneath the eyecup that holds down the EVF.
There was only one screw under the LCD screen. Depending on the camera, there could be no screws or up to six in this area, like with certain Fujifilm cameras.
On the memory card side, we found three screws: one underneath the slot cover and two on the exterior.
On the port side, there was one visible screw on the exterior of the camera and three beneath the dust caps.
After removing the screws on the left and right sides of the camera, we separated the rear panel from the body. One long ribbon cable connects the rear panel to the circuit board, so it was unfastened to fully remove the rear panel.
We extracted the EVF diopter. Removing the (-/+) indicator sticker revealed a single screw that held the diopter knob to the EVF assembly.
Next, we disconnected two ribbon cables that were attached to the EVF. This allowed us to finally remove the entire EVF assembly.
Five screws held the RF shield to the circuit board.
Disconnect eight ribbon cables attached to the circuit board.
Three screws around the circuit board’s perimeter held it down inside the camera body.
We nearly forgot about two ribbon cables. The smaller ribbon cable to the left of the camera connects to the dust caps piece.
Since we removed the ribbon cable, we were able to remove the dust caps on the port side.
One last ribbon cable was disconnected, which finally allowed us to remove the circuit board.
Three screws on the tripod mount were extracted to remove the tripod mount.
Four screws fastened the circuit board mounting frame to the body.
Two additional screws inside the EVF slot secure the circuit board mounting frame.
One screw inside the battery slot was extracted.
At this point, we were unable to remove the circuit board frame to fully reach the camera sensor. We carefully peeled back the textured grip on the right-hand side of the camera but surprisingly found no screws underneath. Typically, one can find screws on either side of the camera beneath the rubber grip.
One screw was removed above the textured rubber grip on the memory card side.
One screw below the circuit board was removed. This held the top panel in place and allowed us to fully remove the top panel and circuit board mounting frame.
Three screws fastened the camera sensor in place.
Once the screws were removed, the camera sensor was able to be extracted.
The Nikon Z6III is somewhat similar to the Nikon Z7 (which we’ve previously taken apart in our other teardown), with the exception of more screws and parts. According to our lead camera technician, this camera is relatively easy to disassemble.
